“We anchor everything that happens here in water,” attests Sharon Holtz, Vice President of Wellness at this welcoming hot springs resort that’s nestled alongside the banks of the San Juan River. During my visit here last fall, I was among the first to experience the new Aqua Massage in one of the property’s 25 therapeutic geothermal pools. It was heaven—and this is coming from someone who prefers not to Watsu (I know, blasphemous to the spa world!), but this wasn’t Watsu.
What I loved about the Aqua Massage is that it is a massage—and a remarkably blissful one because the combination of body-temperature mineral waters and simple floats, placed behind your neck and under your knees, makes the experience gravity-free—like floating in the Dead Sea—and thus, in many ways, more nurturing than any massage table. It is one of the best treatments I can remember—even if it was cut short by a flash of lightning and a loud bang.
“It’s one thing to float people in the water, but to have a hands-on massage element really gives our guests a deeper experience,” notes Holtz. During my stay, I also enjoyed an Aqua Yoga class and an absolutely lovely Nighttime Soak and Aqua Sound Bath in the Columbine pool, Holtz’s personal favorite.
On Plunging & Perfect Guides
The pool grounds
The pools are open 24 hours, and most of my time was spent soaking to my heart’s content, hopping from pool to pool, and in between, taking cold dips in the refreshing San Juan River. The average temperature of the water here is 80 to 114 degrees Fahrenheit, and the healing water is chock-full of thirteen good-for-you minerals including lithium, potassium, magnesium, iron, sulfate, and manganese. Every day at noon, guests may opt for the Warrior Plunge—an introduction to contrast bathing that takes place in the river. After the plunge, you’re given a beaded bracelet as a memento. “It creates a sense of community and connects you with other people in the pool,” shares Holtz. “Someone may have done the Warrior Plunge the day before . . . you become part of a community of people who have challenged themselves.”
“The goal of the soaking guides is to give guests a deeper health resort experience…”
I loved the printed guides on offer—The Science-based Soaking Guide, The Restoration Guide, and especially the super-comprehensive Detox Guide. The latter is a two-day Detox Journey that uses “contrast hydrotherapy circuits, scientific research, and tips to engage you in a deeper detoxification cycle.” There’s even an excellent Sleep Guide. This is seriously good stuff. The guides are authored by a true believer and an expert in balneology, Dr. Marcus Coplin. Board President of the Balneology Association of North America (BANA), Dr. Coplin is a primary care Naturopathic Medical Doctor and Medical Director at The Springs Resort. “The goal of the soaking guides is to give guests a deeper health resort experience,” explains Dr. Coplin. “Our guests are able to use the self-guided tour through the pools to feel for themselves the benefits the waters have to offer.”
History & The Mother Spring
The majestic Mother Spring
The ancient Anasazi tribes were the first that we know of to feel the benefits of Pagosa Springs—and it was the Ute tribe that actually named the springs. “Pahgosa,” as the resort’s literature tells me, translates to “healing waters.” The history here mirrors that of sacred hot springs throughout the United States that were first revered and used by Native Americans, discovered by settlers, and later gold miners. When the Mining Act of the 1870s was passed and gold was discovered in a town close by, soaking in the springs became popular. The first bathhouse was constructed in the 1880s, and thus began the commercialization of Pagosa Springs.
But back to the water. The Springs Resort is home to the Mother Spring—at 1,002 feet deep, she’s the deepest geothermal hot spring in the world. You can’t step foot in her, but you can gather around her and lose yourself in her beautiful blue hues and the sultry steam that arises. This Mother Spring means business. Not only does she provide geothermal energy to the resort—she constantly feeds the 25 smaller pools and also provides heat to schools, municipal and county buildings, and breweries in the town of Pagosa Springs. Not to be missed: The Gratitude Ceremony that’s held at 4:00 pm each day around the majestic Mother Spring.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Spa. The treatments here are specifically designed to be combined with soaking to “stimulate both your immune and circulatory systems.” The Spa uses ISUN skincare, an exquisite clean beauty brand that’s wild-crafted and formulated in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. I’m a longtime fan of ISUN’s Gemstone Body Oils and more recently the Emerald Sun Hydrosol Serum. The Spa is home to the Mineral Bar, an interactive salt bar and soap-cutting experience. And you must not depart without purchasing a bag of the resort’s Home Hot Spring mineral salts. While they may not replicate the wonderful experience of soaking in Pagosa Springs, they do bring a bit of The Springs’ therapeutic minerals home to your tub.
If You Go & Have Time To Spare
Hiking the trails at Chimney Rock
Here are a bunch of fun and interesting things to do off-property at The Springs Resort, should you have extra time to spare before or after soaking.
Art lovers will appreciate Two Old Crows Gallery located in an historic building in the center of downtown Pagosa Springs. There’s lots to see and admire here, including traditional Western art, sculpture, jewelry, furniture, and photography.
Chimney Rock National Monument offers incredible views, hiking, and history. Walk in the footsteps of the Ancestral Puebloans of the Chaco Canyon, following primitive pathways that haven’t changed for a thousand years.
Have lunch at Kip’s Grill & Cantina in downtown Pagosa Springs, and try the Portobello Tacos or the Fish Tacos, a local favorite. A perfect lunch spot that fills up quickly and does not take reservations .
Beer aficionados take note: Riff Raff Brewing Company, located in a Victorian house, offers craft beers and tavern fare. It also creates geothermal-powered beer—and they’ll happily give you a tour of the facilities. Try the Lamb Meatballs and the Colorado Cobb Salad.
Feel like being fancy? Reserve dinner at the Alley House Grille a casually elegant dining destination. This is the hotspot in town where summertime dinners on the deck are in demand. Try the Seared Hokkaido Sea Scallops with Saffron Risotto.
A bit off the beaten path, but worth every single moment is Mesa Verde National Park, a World Heritage Site. This is where, for over 700 years, the Ancestral Pueblo people built incredible communities on the mesas and in the cliffs of the Mesa Verde. This is also an International Dark Sky Park. Go. You won’t regret it.
Mary Bemis
Mary Bemis is Founder & Editorial Director of InsidersGuidetoSpas.com. An advocate for all things spa, Mary forged a vocabulary for spa reportage that is widely used by those who cover the issues today. Recently honored as a Top 30 Influential Voice Transforming Wellness by Medika Life, Mary is an inaugural honoree of Folio’s Top Women in Media Award. Her spa media roots run deep—in 1997, she launched American Spa magazine, in 2007, she co-founded Organic Spa magazine, and in between serving on the ISPA and NYSPA Board of Directors, she was on the launch teams of Luxury SpaFinder and New Beauty magazines. Named a "Wonder Woman of Wellness" by American Spa magazine, Mary was honored by the International Spa Association with the distinguished ISPA Dedicated Contributor Award. She is a special advisor to the non-profit Global Wellness Day.
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